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CoolantConsumer

CoolantConsumer

1st Gear Poster
Birdcats Supporter
Joined
Nov 2, 2023
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38
Location
Las Vegas
Vehicle Details
93 SC manual | 95 Lx V8
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Hey everyone!

I just bought an SC a month ago which is WIP but impulsively picked up a stock 95 V8 to be my daily. Thought I’d tap into this forum as well. Idle is rough when it’s cold but more on that later. Here’s a pic! (Check out the color)
 

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Nice! Is it Chameleon Blue or Silver Blue Mist? If it's Chameleon Blue, the paint code on the door jamb plate will be TA.
 
Nice! Whered you find it? I was gonna pick up a bird this next week but it sold. It happens frequently after many days of planning and cold feet
 
It looks great. Which interior color?
 
Vicinity said:
Nice! Whered you find it? I was gonna pick up a bird this next week but it sold. It happens frequently after many days of planning and cold feet
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In Vegas! I think more people are starting to realize this car and are picking it up. These sell fast. I got it for 2600 at 110k miles clean title. Either the best deal ever or the worst let’s seeee
 

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Is something wrong with my eyes? that looks like opal grey lol
 
CoolantConsumer said:
In Vegas! I think more people are starting to realize this car and are picking it up. These sell fast. I got it for 2600 at 110k miles clean title. Either the best deal ever or the worst let’s seeee
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Seems like a good deal, might be enough grace in that price if something needs to be rebuilt, right?
 
Tinkering on the car today and we ran some codes saying it was running lean. We are changing out the fuel pressure regulator. Also turns out the paint code is GK. However, I can’t find a definitive answer on what color that is.

Edit: Rose mist (Red night mist) Anyone have production numbers? Thanks
 
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Lean codes are usually vacuum leaks so check your various lines and hoses, especially along the EVAP system as those seem to be the source of most people's troubles these days
 
I garuntee the little piece behind the pass inner fender liner has never been replaced. The 96 4.6 has 8x 1.5" pieces of hose in that 1 motherfucking line. :) 93 manual is probably slightly different. All those little hoses are in the process of turning back into the shit they were made of, like all rubber. Trace the line from the TB, it heads to the pass frame rail, and the evap cannister is under the nose, in front of the airbox. All my 4.6's were laying in the nose, disconnected. Seems like the solenoid is mounted, and the canister is attached only by the lines. You'll need ~ 1 foot of vacuum line, and it needs to be rated for fuel vapor, 'emissions line', iirc.
 
Update: as of right now we changed the fuel pressure regulator and it fires right up and cel is now gone. I will drive it more later but it’s looking good.
 
I lied. Still running rough when cold. Fired up right away now with changing the fuel pressure regulator. It stalls out and rpms drops when pressing the throttle. I’m suspecting a vacuum leak. Any other lines I should check?
 
Vacuum leak is most likely, with the engine cold the car is running in open loop which means the O2 sensors aren't fine-tuning the mixture to "fix" the lean issue.

The EVAP lines are the most common - the ones behind the passenger headlight and also some lines along the passenger fender up against the valve cover. Also check to be sure the other lines are in good shape - brake booster, HVAC, EGR, FPR, PCV, valve cover vent etc. Any unmetered air (air that gets into the intake that does NOT pass through the MAF sensor) is bad.
 
MadMikeyL said:
On the 94/95s there is a vacuum elbow down at the back of the intake manifold below the throttle body that often cracks and creates a large vacuum leak.
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Yeah if you don't know to look for that on that intake setup it can easily be missed.
 
95 lower ends last a long time. with the valve stem problems, tho, you'll want to do a headswap when the oil leakage thru the valve stems gets too bad.PI heads aren't too bad. I bought a 750mi pi motor for 700 bux.
 
Grog6 said:
95 lower ends last a long time. with the valve stem problems, tho, you'll want to do a headswap when the oil leakage thru the valve stems gets too bad.PI heads aren't too bad. I bought a 750mi pi motor for 700 bux.
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94/5s have a habit of oil getting past the rings too, that’s what killed mine in spite of PI heads with fresh valve stem seals
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Is something wrong with my eyes? that looks like opal grey lol
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I thought so too. Rose Mist only came with Opal Grey interiors. It was the only paint color that didn't give you a choice in interior colors.

CoolantConsumer said:
Also turns out the paint code is GK. However, I can’t find a definitive answer on what color that is.

Edit: Rose mist (Red night mist) Anyone have production numbers? Thanks
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Not a common color, especially these days. It's a great color when it is shined up. I always loved the Taurus SHOs that came in it.
 
theterminator93 said:
Vacuum leak is most likely, with the engine cold the car is running in open loop which means the O2 sensors aren't fine-tuning the mixture to "fix" the lean issue.

The EVAP lines are the most common - the ones behind the passenger headlight and also some lines along the passenger fender up against the valve cover. Also check to be sure the other lines are in good shape - brake booster, HVAC, EGR, FPR, PCV, valve cover vent etc. Any unmetered air (air that gets into the intake that does NOT pass through the MAF sensor) is bad.
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MadMikeyL said:
On the 94/95s there is a vacuum elbow down at the back of the intake manifold below the throttle body that often cracks and creates a large vacuum leak.
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supergordo said:
Yeah if you don't know to look for that on that intake setup it can easily be missed.
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@supergordo took a look and recommended to change the pcv valve because it was leaking. It usually idles fine however, there are random times of stalling and it is usually fixed after restarting the car.
 

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The top elbow on the PCV is the EVAP inlet, so any leak in the PCV is a leak from there as well
 
The car is actually in nice shape. Pretty nice interior. Great color. Control arms have been replaced which is nice. Needs an idler pulley, belt tensioner and belt. The vacuum line and the T that leads from the PCV to the T to the manifold is in decent shape. I think it needs a god throttle body cleaning. As well the stalling is probably a cheap IAC. I know Chris Murder will agree with me. The cheap replacement IAC valves for Fords rarely actually work right.
 
supergordo said:
The car is actually in nice shape. Pretty nice interior. Great color. Control arms have been replaced which is nice. Needs an idler pulley, belt tensioner and belt. The vacuum line and the T that leads from the PCV to the T to the manifold is in decent shape. I think it needs a god throttle body cleaning. As well the stalling is probably a cheap IAC. I know Chris Murder will agree with me. The cheap replacement IAC valves for Fords rarely actually work right.
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Not too shabby. Can’t wait to learn on it.
 
Those cars have some intricate passages in theTB egr circuit that are a bear to clean. It pretty much has to come off.
Sounds like a lot of stuff has already been fixed. The remaining stuff to make it reliable is minimal.
A 95 will need a transmission, and they are a bit tougher than others.
The rear bushings will develop play, and need a solution.
The easiest mod, that I'd do first is brakes, the 04 pbr's at a minimum.
a PI headswap and intake will rock a 95. It can probably use to have new rings, Which requires putting a crosshatch pattern on the bores if you want the rings to seal... :)Once you open one, it seem like there's Always 'just one more thing', lol.
 
I took apart a 96 2v, and that finally got a 03 pi engine, by way of a 97 dohc, a 93 dohc, and an 99 conti. :)
 
Grog6 said:
I took apart a 96 2v, and that finally got a 03 pi engine, by way of a 97 dohc, a 93 dohc, and an 99 conti. :)
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Take apart a 95 and earlier sometime lol Seriously, if you're taking a 94-95 block down to the point of honing (which is to say 100% disassembled) just get a whole PI motor, its not worth rebuilding the 94-95 bottom end. The problem isn't the rings, its the ring lands in the pistons, the tolerances in the way they're machined that makes them prone to gunking up and not expand properly. It doesn't seem to be much of a limiting factor but the block isn't crossbolted on the 5th main cap like 96+ engines either, it wouldn't bother me if I were just sending it as is, but going through the trouble of disassembling, cleaning everything, honing, cleaning some more, buying and torquing all the one time use hardware, gapping the rings, installing bearings and checking tolerences, I'm sure as shit not saving a 94-95 block.:zcrazy: Make it a coffee table!
 
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96's gunk up pretty bad too. The one I took apart after I dropped a valve had rings so gunked up, the middle ring probably hadn't moved in years.
No way is seafoam fixing that, lol.
I have a nice set of 3cc dish Hypereutectic pistons to go in one. :)
 
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