Leaking Rack

I bouht newlines and pump, and cardone rack... from ra, and my mechanic asked where Igot them, they weremuchbetter quality than what he was getting from napa.
If you cant get one with the valve, yu can remove the valve from your old pump, and install it on the new.
 
If you take a look at my video on subframe lowering you can get a good idea of what you need to do to replace the rack. it really isn't that horrible a job. Have some stubby combination wrenches ready for the lines that go to the rack.
 
I used crows foot wrenches and extentions. at least the 90's are available now.
 
If you're making the old lady's funbags leak, maybe it's time to quit pounding that shit so hard. :)
 
Just wanted to add some info to this thread. First I had no idea SN95 racks were semi-interchangeable with MN12 cars so that is good to know. I saw earlier in the thread references to the oft sought SPR ZM steering rack. Of course there is also the holy grail SPR VT from the Cobra R that is even rarer. Since I am in the middle of upgrading the steering rack on my '85 LTD I'm pretty up on SN95 rack info. According to Jack Hidley at Maximum Motorsports, there is little/no internal difference between the valving/torsion bars on the later SN95 steering racks. Your best bet is to get the lowest mileage latest model year ('02-'04 are supposed to be the best). I have an '01 Mustang GT rack that will go in my LTD. People want crazy money for the 03/04 Cobra racks and who knows what you are getting from a mass rebuilder. I got a low mileage (70k miles) rack on ebay for about $150.

See post #14: https://www.corral.net/threads/agr-steering-rack-questions.2507215/
 
KevinVarnes said:
Just wanted to add some info to this thread. First I had no idea SN95 racks were semi-interchangeable with MN12 cars so that is good to know. I saw earlier in the thread references to the oft sought SPR ZM steering rack. Of course there is also the holy grail SPR VT from the Cobra R that is even rarer. Since I am in the middle of upgrading the steering rack on my '85 LTD I'm pretty up on SN95 rack info. According to Jack Hidley at Maximum Motorsports, there is little/no internal difference between the valving/torsion bars on the later SN95 steering racks. Your best bet is to get the lowest mileage latest model year ('02-'04 are supposed to be the best). I have an '01 Mustang GT rack that will go in my LTD. People want crazy money for the 03/04 Cobra racks and who knows what you are getting from a mass rebuilder. I got a low mileage (70k miles) rack on ebay for about $150.

See post #14: https://www.corral.net/threads/agr-steering-rack-questions.2507215/
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I got my SPR ZM low mile used for about that but that was back in 2018, I'm sure they've gotten harder and harder to come by reasonably since then. It's direct fit except for the rag joint, but that's the same case for retrofitting to Fox bodies. Just need to use the tie rod ends and bushings for a MN12 application.
 
Back at this project.

I'm trying to remove the inner tie rods from the old rack before removing it from the car. The inners have a pin pressed in almost like a rivot. Any tips for removing that pin? I think these inners are Moog.
 
If it is like the old fox body inner tie rods, I just twisted that rivet off when I turned the inner tie rod off of the rack. I have heard of people using/making elaborate slide hammer type pullers, but mine snapped off pretty easily. From what I recall it was just aluminum.
 
I just twist it off with the rivet in place as well, it’s softer than the threads so they won’t be hurt by it
 
Is there a source for a replacement rivot? Or just locktight?

I got the rack removed, broke the high pressure line, but am changing to an fittings so no biggie. I still need to remove the high pressure side from the pump. Am going to pick up some stubby wrenches tomorrow and cut off wheels.

For refference you need 3/4" & 11/16" wrenches.
 
I was surprised to see the Moog inners I have in stock for the '97 Thunderbird come with that little aluminum rivet. What brand did you get?

As mentioned the fox body cars had the rivet, but when they went to the SN95 they allegedly did away with it. The Motorcraft replacements for the SN95 have no provisions for them. I was just going to torque mine with my calibrated arm when I swap the inners from my old rack to the new rack on my LTD. I've also replaced inners on other cars where the aftermarket part came with Loctite, but I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than blue and not a ton of it. I've heard of people using steel roll pins, in lieu of the softer pins, but I don't know how I feel about that. I've seen other aftermarket parts tapped for set screws which seems like a nicer solution as long as you can actually get them out when it comes time to remove it.
 
They are Moog problemsolvers.
 
Hmm I'm pretty sure my SPR ZM rack came with the rivets, I replaced them with Moogs and my own 1/8" rivets when I pulled the limiters
 
1. You can buy aluminum poprivets.
2. If you do the AN line mod, Be very careful not to let the an fitting go too deep into the pump; it will rub the rotor, and ruin the pump. I feel sorry for anyone behind me that day on the interstate, lol.
3. My mechanic loved the HP lines I bought from RA; he said the ones from the part stores were crap. I don't remember the brand, but I used a cardone rack, and put 133k on it.It's still in the car.
 
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KevinVarnes said:
Mine had the pin in the bag with the jam nut. Did you check in there? It is pretty small and easy to miss.
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My plan is to reuse the inner / outer / bellows as a unit off the old rack and transplant that onto to the new rack.
 
Grog6 said:
Be very careful not to let the an fitting go too deep into the pump; it will rub the rotor, and ruin the pump.
Click to expand...
Is this without grinding down the fitting? Or even with the fitting ground some as XR7-4.6 shows in his thread?
 
“Rub the rotor”??? The fitting won’t get anywhere near any moving part in the pump. The reason I ground the fitting was because there is a passage in the middle of the threads that an unground adapter fitting will completely block off.
 
Any tips for removing the high pressure line from the pump?
I can barely get the stubby wrench in there, much less get the nut to move, plus it's almost impossible to see anything.
 
Get a pulley remover to get it out of the way, then you have lots of tool access.
 
Thats what i was afraid of.
 
I take the oil filter off. Then I can usually get a regular length wrench in there to crack it loose then use a stubby to get it the rest of the way off. It's a pain but it's doable. Like Matt said taking the pulley off helps. But you don't HAVE to take the pulley off.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Thats what i was afraid of.
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The cheap harbor freight kit works fine for it, it’s really a lot easier. I’ve done it without removing the pulley but it’s much much much less aggravating to just get the pulley out of the way, makes getting the pump off easier too. I recommend leaving the fourth bolt next to the fitting out too.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
The cheap harbor freight kit works fine for it, it’s really a lot easier. I’ve done it without removing the pulley but it’s much much much less aggravating to just get the pulley out of the way, makes getting the pump off easier too. I recommend leaving the fourth bolt next to the fitting out too.
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I agree on leaving the 4th bolt out. Ford went that way on later 4.6s anyway. What do we have to lose??
 
supergordo said:
I agree on leaving the 4th bolt out. Ford went that way on later 4.6s anyway. What do we have to lose??
Click to expand...
Removing the pulley really helped. Full size wrench to crack it loose and then the stubby to spin it off. For future reference that's an 18mm. I borrowed the pulley tool from O'Reillys, made it real easy. Going to work on mounting the new rack today.
 
I've got a question about he Dorman seals. Do they sit on top of the threads or do they go past the threads to the bolt head?

When trimming down the AN adapter I tried to work the larger seal past the threads and it just split.

Side bar in regard to grinding down the AN adapter for the pump: You really need to use a bench grinder, I don't have one so I tried a dremel. The cut was a crooked as a dog's hind leg and I thought I screwed up the adapter. I jury rigged a bench grinder by placing my angel grinder in the vise then lining the base plate of my drill press up to it. That allowed me to square up the grind.
 
If you use the suggested fitting, and tighten it all the way down, it rubs the pump internals, of at least, mine did. I did not grind it tho. I used a nylon washer, like the article/post.
Wasted the pump, dumped fluid everywhere on my way home. :) Poor traffic behind me, lol.
 
I found this, I guess all I need to do is read. 🤦
IMG_3636.jpeg
 
Got the rack in, such a PÍA, especially by myself. Filled fluid and watching for leaks.

There are spacers inside the inner tire rods, should I leave those? Pic in next post.
 
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