1995 Thunderbird 4.6

If you go out there and the radio trim panel is in good shape, grab it for me and let me know your price. Not an urgent need though.
 
Not that I need one, but Im curious if alternators would be a priority at that mileage, or are they abundant from other models anyway?
 
Not that I need one, but Im curious if alternators would be a priority at that mileage, or are they abundant from other models anyway?
Re-manufactured ones are readily available from any parts store.
 
Will post these for sale. All parts are in exceptional condition based on my junkyard experience.

This car was a bit of a mystery. That low mileage, paint work all around (with red overspray on various black trim pieces), a '97 shift knob in a '95... As usual, I'd love to know the car's history.

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Unreal how low mileage it is (provided the gears aren't stripped).

I'll pass on that trim piece. Mine also has the same two broken clips so it would be the same problem as what I have now. Appreciate the photos.
 
I'll pass on that trim piece. Mine also has the same two broken clips so it would be the same problem as what I have now.

You may have noticed from my various mods that I love zip ties...

Consider this: attach a small zip tie in whatever is left of that clip near the temperature sensor grille; you can drill a tiny hole through the stump and push the zip tie through. Now you just need to find/drill another small hole (e.g. in the climate/radio cage), pull that zip tie through, and secure the end with another zip tie.

Hard to explain without pics, but if you look into my door insert how-to thread, you'll see the concept.
 
The seats look pretty used for 24k.

Not that I need one, but Im curious if alternators would be a priority at that mileage, or are they abundant from other models anyway?
Our alternators can be easily rebuilt, unless you break a coil,or set it on fire, lol. Victory Lap makes rebuild kits that work well, I had to buy an alternator on the way to work, and the lifetime warranty was needed in a week, lol. I bought one of these rebuild kits, put it in the oem one that died, and put another 100k on it, before I had to replace the bearings, which came in the kit. They make starter kits too.

Be damned if I can find it now. I still have one iirc.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if that was a legit odometer fraud car, flipped by a shady seller

I don't think so. Some of the interior pieces really looked brand new.

The shift knob puzzles me. It has a two-wire connector. '97s (at least mine plus all I've seen) have a four-wire connector (combined with illumination). Yet, this is clearly a '97 style knob with shorter leather/taller shroud.
 
The seats look pretty used for 24k.


Our alternators can be easily rebuilt, unless you break a coil,or set it on fire, lol. Victory Lap makes rebuild kits that work well, I had to buy an alternator on the way to work, and the lifetime warranty was needed in a week, lol. I bought one of these rebuild kits, put it in the oem one that died, and put another 100k on it, before I had to replace the bearings, which came in the kit. They make starter kits too.

Be damned if I can find it now. I still have one iirc.
Interesting, I'm looking at vids of a generic one. They look pretty cool inside
 
Unreal how low mileage it is (provided the gears aren't stripped).

I'll pass on that trim piece. Mine also has the same two broken clips so it would be the same problem as what I have now. Appreciate the photos.

Ya, I've had a few of those. Before using that ABS cement trick I would have just passed on similar broken trim pieces. Now, if I see one that looks nice and I try to remove it and the clips are still there but broken off (still inserted into the dash) I'll just use pliers to pull them out and then reglue them on later. That shit bonds solid, I fixed my "Premium Sound" garage find radio bezel that way, I also fixed a gauge bezel with a broken clip and also reattached the vent from a different broken bezel that was in worse shape.
 
The steering wheels a very easy to remove. A screw cover on each side to remove the air bag, then the main bolt is exposed, remove that and pull. I don’t remember the sizes of the bolts off hand, but I’m sure someone else with chime in.
 
I never needed one in a MN12, I just grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and pull, might have to wiggle it simultaneously but it’ll give. The airbag bolts are 8mm and the center bolt is T50 torx
 
One needs to disarm the airbag right?
 
If you're keeping the airbag, get the aluminum tray underneath. Anyone replacing a blown bag will want that, as it gets deformed when the bag blows, blowing the horn continuously. (This is apparently on purpose.)
 
BTW, it's illegal as hell to send an airbag fedex or mail without expensive precautions. They're explosives, and dangerous. Static in the winter can set one off, so use care.
 
Microwaves destroy airbags, or the other way around....
 
I might need the 2-wire cable from the PWM controller to the blower motor. LMK if you're out there again....

On an unrelated note, if you find any nice 98 Mark VIII steering wheels in black/charcoal... :)
 
I might need the 2-wire cable from the PWM controller to the blower motor. LMK if you're out there again....

On an unrelated note, if you find any nice 98 Mark VIII steering wheels in black/charcoal... :)

I'm still here. Let me look at the cables.

Only Mark VIII here has a grey interior, and it's filthy.
 

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