Cam position sensor

1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
@Rodeo Joe , did you fix your code yet?
Click to expand...
No, new sensor didn't take care of the code. The engine definitely idles better than it did before, and the original problem that brought it to my attention seems to be gone. The engine seemed to be almost missing or skipping between 65-70 mph, that issue is gone.

I've poked around and plugs could also be an issue, so if the weather cooperates this weekend I'll swap those out. If not, then it looks like it might be time for a new synchronizer and I'm not looking forward to that. :zboom:

Mikey or Gordon, how difficult is this?

Joe
 
Rodeo Joe said:
No, new sensor didn't take care of the code. The engine definitely idles better than it did before, and the original problem that brought it to my attention seems to be gone. The engine seemed to be almost missing or skipping between 65-70 mph, that issue is gone.

I've poked around and plugs could also be an issue, so if the weather cooperates this weekend I'll swap those out. If not, then it looks like it might be time for a new synchronizer and I'm not looking forward to that. :zboom:

Mikey or Gordon, how difficult is this?

Joe
Click to expand...
It really isn't that bad. New synchronizers come with the holding tool. So you take the cam sensor off, hand crank the motor until you can install the tool onto the old synchro. I like to mark the old synchro body and the block with a sharpie. Same as you might when pulling a distributor. Take pictures of everything before you start. Once you know where everything is when you start and have the block and synchro marked and the holding tool installed, you simply pull the synchro out slowly. Take note of the position of the mark when it comes out of the block. It will rotate away from the original mark on the block. Just like a distributor. Then put the holding tool on the new synchro. Make a mark with a sharpie on the new one in the same place as the old one. Then insert it where the old once came out and it should rotate down to the mark on the block. Does that make sense?
 
If you give me a couple days. I have an old 5.0 for an explorer in my van. I could film a quick video on the subject. The synchro is the same things basically on that. And I have it out of the car.
 
Yeah, it’s really not that bad. I rarely use the special tool, unless I suspect someone was messing with it before me and may have mis-aligned it. Pull the cam sensor off, and turn the engine over until the leading edge of the half-moon piece is in the middle of the opening. Then take the bolt out, and pull the synchronizer up, but not all the way out. As you pull it up, it will turn slightly, and now mark where it ends up with the sharpie, and pull it the rest of the way out. Now on the new one, make a mark with the sharpie in approximately the same location, line up the edge of the half-moon with the sharpie mark, and put it in, and as it goes down, it will turn and hopefully wind up in the middle of the opening. If it is off by just a little bit, you can twist the synchronizer base to get it perfect. If it is off by a lot, you may have it a tooth off, in which case you just pull it back up and re-clock it to get it where it needs to be.
 
Thanks guys! When you mention marking with a sharpie, is it on the synchronizer it self, engine block or something near by?

Video would be great Gordon, no rush!

Joe
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Thanks guys! When you mention marking with a sharpie, is it on the synchronizer it self, engine block or something near by?

Video would be great Gordon, no rush!

Joe
Click to expand...
I mark both the synchro body and the block in the same place. That way if you want you can actually practice by removing the old one, then reinserting it just to get the feel for it. By having the marks on it, you'll know if it goes back in where you removed it.
Mikey added some details I left out, which is helpful.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
How hard is that actually? I've been wondering about that on the subject of the torque converter drain plug.
Click to expand...
You just put a ratchet and socket on the balancer bolt and work it clockwise. With spark plugs in there will be resistance. You can feel the compression, but it's doable. Not a big deal.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Just picked up a crank sensor. Only hope I'll be able to return the "unused" camshaft sensor later.
Click to expand...
Please don't be that guy.

Are these synchronizers basically the same as the 4.0L pushrod engines? When i changed mine out in my 1st gen Explorer, there was a method of marking the crank pulley with tape and using a voltmeter to set the timing.
 
Last edited:
Swapped the plugs out and did a bit of driving and it didn't change anything, the code is still there.

Question though, White Lincoln had an issue with a code he had and it was brought up about running it through drive cycles. Could this be the issue with me, I need to drive it more for everything to reset? I really don't want to change out the synchronizer if I don't have to.

Joe
 
When I had the code discussed previously in this thread, I reset it (or at least disconnected the battery) each time I fixed, or attempted to fix, something and then drove it to see if the code would return.

I don't know if the code would have disappeared by itself if I hadn't reset it.
 
I've cleared the code with the scanner, so I wasn't sure if I did need to drive it more.

Joe
 
It's back! :bawling:

Joe
 
If yoy clear the codes with the xcal, ou don't need a drive cycle.
If you clear the eec or disconnect the battery, you need to do the drive cycle.
Pulling fuse 15 under the hood and trying to start it clears the codes, and the eec. Do that after curing problems, and if the drive cycle completes, The prob is fixed. P1000 goes away when it completes.
 
Greg,

It's not an Xcal but a pocket scanner, not sure if that makes a difference.

Joe
 
Well if you've been through all that you are probably going to have to replace the synchro. I can make a video this week. I have one on the stand.
 
Rodeo Joe said:
I've cleared the code with the scanner, so I wasn't sure if I did need to drive it more.

Joe
Click to expand...

The cam sensor is a redundant check .. it is monitored by the EEC at all times.

The drive cycles has nothing to do with component testing ( IAC, TPS, MAF, etc .. ) Drive cycles test emissions devices that require certain driving conditions to check for functionality ( catalyst, evap, etc ).
 
Ordered a new synchronizer today, I should have it by the end of the week. Hopefully I can get it done, it’s almost time to put the car away for the winter.

Joe
 
MadMikeyL said:
and turn the engine over until the leading edge of the half-moon piece is in the middle of the opening.
Click to expand...
Ok guys, going to start on this project soon. Mikey, I took some pictures of the new synchronizer and want to see which position of the half moon piece should be.

Joe
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6340.jpeg
    IMG_6340.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 3
  • IMG_6343.jpeg
    IMG_6343.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 3
  • IMG_6342.jpeg
    IMG_6342.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_6341.jpeg
    IMG_6341.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 3
Which way it is doesn’t really matter, as long as it matches the position of the one you take out. What I would do is take the sensor part off the old one, and turn the engine over to #1TDC. That should put the half moon piece I believe 180 out from the first pic. Then what I do is unbolt it, and as you pull it up off the cam, the gear on the bottom will turn the synchronizer shaft slightly, I believe counterclockwise. Once it does that, before removing it the rest of the way, make a reference mark on the old one with a sharpie where the edge of the half moon winds up, then turn the new one to match that, and as you slide it in, it should wind up matching the original position. If it is off slightly, you can turn the synchronizer like a distributor to get it perfect, but if it is way off, then it is probably a tooth off, and you will have to pull it out, turn it, and put it back to get it right.
 
Mikey,

Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it!

Darren,

Unfortunately it's raining off and on and it's nasty raw out! :ztongue:

Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top