My 3650 swap

Thanks mikey, i really appreciate it. Ive got the last of the little pieces on the way, another week or two all i should need is a bottle of brake fluid.

@CDsDontBurn if you dont mind, that would be fantastic.
 
Driveshaft shop is telling me there are two different pinion flanges used on 8.8s. Anyone aware of which the irs 8.8 uses? Apparently the bolt circle options are 3.5" or 4.25"
 
Turns out a guy i work with thinks he has the stuff to flash my chip but hes not actually messed with stuff this old. He was wondering if anyone knows the hex or binary location for what we need to change to disable auto functionality.
 
The fact the eec is encrypted to keep us from fucking with it, makes the SCT PRP package $450. :) A poor tune, or a bad flash will brick your car, be careful letting some rando tune your car. It's incredibly easy to break something permanently.
 
Since i posted that we found tunerpro and it seems like its going to be pretty straight forward. Seems like the hard work has already been done and we just have to change a couple values for the transmission. Didnt find out yet how to disable the speed governor but that shouldnt be that hard i imagine. He was excited to read up on it to be able to play with it. Hes not new to tuning, just new to the old stuff, he does lots of ecoboost stuff, pats delete and what not.
 
Guy I work with didnt pan out, guess he doesn't have the hardware anymore. Last of my pieces parts finally got here. Was hoping to get this banged out this weekend, but long story short if I'm going to that it's going to need to be done in 24hrs. Feel confident about it, have a lift and trans jack only really crusty stuff is the diff mount bolts. Seems like the mgw shifter is pretty easy to attach, hope that's the case. Any words of wisdom or gotchas to look out for?
 
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You don’t really need the quarterhorse to tune it, you can just burn the tune directly to the chip. The quarterhorse is nice because you can make changes on the fly and datalog everything, but if all you are doing is deleting the automatic transmission controls, you won’t be going back and forth making a bunch of changes to the tune, so the chip will be fine.
 
MadMikeyL said:
You don’t really need the quarterhorse to tune it, you can just burn the tune directly to the chip. The quarterhorse is nice because you can make changes on the fly and datalog everything, but if all you are doing is deleting the automatic transmission controls, you won’t be going back and forth making a bunch of changes to the tune, so the chip will be fine.
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I can't even figure out how to interface with the chip. From what I understand I need the burner chip and cable to interface with it. All i can seem to find about it is everything to do with it is discontinued. Facebook groups are telling me everything from dont even need to disable auto trans functionality to just buy a holley terminator... lol. Guess ill put it together and try it with / without the chip to see if one of them seems to work ok, if not ill bite the bullet and drop pants for scp.
 
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Doxnoogle said:
Facebook groups
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No offense to anyone, but majority of the people there are morons.

After I finished most of the T45 swap I attempted to drive mine without a tune. It was barely able to make it down the road. It was backfiring so bad I was worried the engine was going to grenade
 
MGWs have trans tunnel interference from what I heard, you might need to hammer on the tunnel a little but I don’t know the details.

It will run on the auto tune but it will behave odd at times; pulled timing rev hang and bucking
 
XR7-4.6 said:
MGWs have trans tunnel interference from what I heard, you might need to hammer on the tunnel a little but I don’t know the details.

It will run on the auto tune but it will behave odd at times; pulled timing rev hang and bucking
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My understanding is I'll need flatten a spot out and drill a couple holes for it to mount, here's hoping it's as straight forward as that. Before work tomorrow I'm going to pull the console and start doing what I can. Not impressed with the brass bushing fitment for the shift linkage. The piece that fits onto the shift rail is perfect, the link bar bushings are sloppy before even taking the paint off. My linkage didn't come with the the bushings for the shifter end so I guess I'm stuck with using em there. Debating trying to knurled them so they will at least be tight for a while.
 
The MGW shifter will hit the top of the trans tunnel, so you will have to beat that area up a bit for everything to clear. For the rear mount for the shifter, it lines up pretty much perfectly with the rear bolts for the plate that seals the hole in the floor, so I just bolted everything through there, and it works great.
 
How much are we talking as far as beating the tunnel? Not new to bfh mods but is it a 15 minute massage or like fitting the 3" down pipe on my pickup that took 2hrs lol
 
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