The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

[Zep5.0]

Are with Matt on this one. I think if you routered the edges and then painted in plasti-dip, you'd have a close match to the stock black. The difficult part might be how to attach it

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I think this should qualify as a stupid question:

Can you bleed the brakes one side at a time?

The maintenance manual specifies to bleed RR>FL>RL>FR.

...but I don't have stands, just ramps.

So my plan was to do it during my tire rotation, which I can do with two jacks, mine and my roommate's. But I'd bleed RR>FR>RL>FL.

I know, I should get stands. Remember, this is a budget operation.

There aren't any adverse braking symptoms, but the fluid is quite dark.

 

[theterminator93]

Can you? Sure. But there's a greater risk of not getting stubborn air bubbles out of the system if you don't do it in the order of furthest-closest.

I typically go RR, LR, RF, LF (shortest to closest to the MC).

 

[supergordo]

I think this should qualify as a stupid question:

Can you bleed the brakes one side at a time?

The maintenance manual specifies to bleed RR>FL>RL>FR.

...but I don't have stands, just ramps.

So my plan was to do it during my tire rotation, which I can do with two jacks, mine and my roommate's. But I'd bleed RR>FR>RL>FL.

I know, I should get stands. Remember, this is a budget operation.

There aren't any adverse braking symptoms, but the fluid is quite dark.

Well I'm sure others will have their opinion. But it wouldn't bother me to do it in the order you want to.
Quite frankly when I open up a brake system and have to bleed it like when doing master cylinders. I usually try to bleed the driver front side first to get the bulk of the air and old fluid out there. That way I'm not trying to flush the capacity of the master cylinder all the way to the rear.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Can you? Sure. But there's a greater risk of not getting stubborn air bubbles out of the system if you don't do it in the order of furthest-closest.

I typically go RR, LR, RF, LF (shortest to closest to the MC).

Yeah, but...

The Ford workshop manual doesn't go furthest to closest. Instead it says that there are two circuits, one being rear/right+front/left, the other being rear/left+front/right. They want you to bleed one circuit, then the other.

At least that's how I understood it.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I usually try to bleed the driver front side first to get the bulk of the air and old fluid out there. That way I'm not trying to flush the capacity of the master cylinder all the way to the rear.

Now that's a good point!

 

[supergordo]

Also, since you are only flushing the old brake fluid and not replacing calipers or master cylinder. You aren't going to be trying to get a bunch of air bubbles out anyway. You are simply trying to get from dirty to clean. Along with no air bubbles.

 

[theterminator93]

The Ford workshop manual doesn't go furthest to closest.

It does - it just groups it by brake circuit. Opposing wheels are on the same master cylinder circuits together.

 

[supergordo]

I bleed and flush lots of brakes regularly. I like to use a clear plastic soda or water bottle to catch the fluid. Use some vacuum hose or you can get clear hose from Lowes/HomeDepot so you can see the fluid stream going from the caliper into the bottle. The dirty old fluid and new fluid doesn't really mix in the bottle so you can see when it is all clean. I put a little fresh fluid in the bottom of the clear bottle stick the hose in the fluid. Then crack open the bleeder then gently pump the brakes. When you are doing this do not pump the shit out of the brake pedal. Don't pump to the floor. Gentle pumps like you are just slowly stopping the car.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Retorquing lug nuts...

The other day, I did my first ever tire rotation on my own. Manual calls for 85-105 lb-ft. I settled for 90.

Today, about 900 miles later, I retorqued the nuts, again with torque wrench set to 90.

I didn't notice any movement of the nuts except on the front left wheel, where at least two nuts gave a couple of degrees before the wrench clicked.

I mean I guess that's why retorquing is a thing in the first place. Still worries me a bit.

Should I go higher? Generally when a torque range is provided, I tend to settle for the low end, so not to put unnecessary stress on the components.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Don’t overthink it too much, click type torque wrenches don’t really register inertia so a few degrees could just be you putting a little more oomph into your push. I do 90 as well, better that than the assholes who use impacts on lugnuts

 

[Grog6]

I stopped a guy once as he was going to do that, without looking to see if anyone was looking. I went the fuck off!

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

OK...so for us ignorants: what is the problem with an impact wrench? Overtorquing?

 

[AdamG]

Yes, overtorquing can cause warped rotors and even bent wheels or even breaking studs. Then you can damage lugnuts trying to remove them, especially if they've been on there for a while.

 

[gunn]

I guess this isn’t really a stupid question, but does anyone here do 3D printing? I’d like to make some sort of aftermarket gauge holder under the radio cubby spot.
I suppose I could just glue a piece of abs plastic to the cubby, but I’m too ocd for that kind of tackiness.

If you want to try this, check your local library.
A lot of them have 3D Printers you can check out time on and just bring the necessary file to print.
Then you get some basic CAD SW, like SketchUp, maybe starting with a model you want from thingiverse, and go to town.
I have a friend who is really into it (for a whole year he was the top seller of coronavirus christmas ornaments on etsy.com) who prints stuff up for me when I need it. The product, made out of PLA, is kind of useful for toys but IMO, isn't the right solution for your project. Resin printing is better (harder plastic so better suited to knobs and whatnot), but the machine is a bit more expensive and the process itself is quite smelly (you want to run it under ventilation). You also need to store a pretty big jug of IPA to use as a print cleaner.

Suggested Alternative: CAD up what you want (same suggestion as above) and send the design to sendcutsend.com for actual manufacturing.
They can cut the design out of all sorts of materials including ABS (likely the best material for your cubby) or even carbon fiber and the price is quite affordable.

Materials - SendCutSend

Shop a variety of laser cutting and waterjet cutting materials, upload your file & we'll cut and ship your parts within 3 days. Starting at $29.

sendcutsend.com

Side benefit: If you know your design exactly matches your cubby, make a few extra and you can offer up the extras for sale since gauges are pretty std sizes. Even if you only make one, the cost is pretty cheap.

This is how I had the steel brackets I needed to make my motor engine mounts for my current car project. Apparently sendcutsend.com can even drill holes, counter sink and tap holes, and even bend steel as well.

 

[Vicinity]

Anyone got good recommendations for a sun blocker on the windshield when parking in the sun? (LSC, not sure if theres a difference)

 

[Zep5.0]

I use an Amazon knockoff of the weather tech on my truck. Like so: https://a.co/d/8gVqt7Z

 

[theterminator93]

OK...so for us ignorants: what is the problem with an impact wrench? Overtorquing?

Aside from the overtorquing it's also the uneven torque on the nuts. Either one of these by itself is enough to turn rotors into bacon, but both makes it a guarantee.