The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

rampagingsloth said:
But shouldn't the bar be level for it to perform as designed? I mean, pretend the bar is facing up at like 45 degrees, I would think that it wouldn't work nearly as well as if it were oriented flat. I'm guessing with lowering springs the angle is less than that, maybe 10 degrees, but wouldn't it still be useful to get shorter links? I pretty sure the aftermarket swaybars I bought years ago came with shorter rear end links because I specified that I'd installed shorter springs.
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Aftermarket sway bars are designed for the universal links with top bushings rather than a pivot bracket like the stock link. Those types of links aren't forgiving to the sway bar being angled in a position other than parallel to the ground
 
My stupid question is this... Does the Dorman 926-322 odometer repair kit actually do what it's supposed to do? Fit correctly and all?
 
GRWeldon said:
My stupid question is this... Does the Dorman 926-322 odometer repair kit actually do what it's supposed to do? Fit correctly and all?
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For a 1989-96 cluster, yes. Very well, in fact.

1997 clusters have a different gearset.
 
In the middle of investigating front suspension noise. I don't see anything loose.

The interesting part: the noise only occurs when  both wheels hit a bump simultaneously. Especially parking lot speed bums cause one loud back & forth creaking or rubbing sound.

There's no noise when just one wheel hits a bump or when crossing a speed bump at an angle.

Is it safe to assume that this is somehow stabilizer bar related? Or would that be the  stupid conclusion? :unsure:
 
Sounds like sway bar bushings. When only one wheel hits a bump, the bar deflects on that side, but when both wheels hit the bump simultaneously, the bar spins in the bushings and if they are worn or dried out, they can cause a creaking noise. As a test, I would just unbolt the mounts, slide the bushing out of the way and spread some grease on the bar where the bushing sits, then put it back and drive it again. If the noise goes away, order new bushings. If it doesn’t, then it is something else.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Can this be done without removing the wheels? I have ramps only, no stands.
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You can do it from the top, the bushings/mounting bolts are on the engine compartment side of the k member, just reach a wrench down
 
Energy suspension makes those; if they've gone dry they usually squeak. :) Adding a hole in the collar,and a zerk fitting, will just make this something else to lube on oil change day.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
You can do it from the top, the bushings/mounting bolts are on the engine compartment side of the k member, just reach a wrench down
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Ok...I don't see how this is possible. There's so much other stuff above them. A/C plumbing, power steering stuff, etc...

Maybe if I remove the fan, I have more room to move around...

Meanwhile, I got under the car while my friend pushed down on the car. The noise definitely comes from the stabilizer bar brackets.
 
Can you try to work some grease into the bushing to see if that colms it down?

Joe
 
Guess the sides are swapped in difficulty with V6/V8. I'm going to need to see if I can get to them easier with the car in the air. The passenger side bracket on the 4.6s is tight. You know how those jobs always end up, it can be done the easier way. But at the expense of your arms getting all torn up and greasy reaching into the depths of the engine bay.
 
I replaced my bushings with the Energy suspension ones; it's been a while but I seem to remember it being fairly easy with a bunch of extensions. It is a PIA to get the grease gun in there though.
 
Put the car on jack stands and take the front tires off. You can do it with a ratchet in the wheel well. Not a big deal.
 
I never figured those were harder to get at on NA 3.8s than modulars. x2 on going in from the wheelwell if top is too tight
 
Did this job this past summer along with the end-links. The bushings weren't bad, I soaked the new ones in silicone spray to keep them soft and they slid right on, I had to drill out the one side on the sway bar to get it off it was a PITA but I got it. I can second going in through the wheel well on the passenger side, once you break 'em loose, use a 1/4in ratchet or it will hit the body right above it and won't come out.
 
Stupid question, what spark plugs should I use on the 3.8L N/A engines? I've yet to find a definitive answer as most people talk about SC's. Are copper plugs okay to use? or should I go platinum or iridium?
 
Jae 'Bird said:
Stupid question, what spark plugs should I use on the 3.8L N/A engines? I've yet to find a definitive answer as most people talk about SC's. Are copper plugs okay to use? or should I go platinum or iridium?
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What are your goals? Miles per year, performance aspirations, plans for engine swaps, keep it original? Copper is actually better for performance despite being the cheapest option, only tradeoff is they're done by 20,000 miles. Platinum will go to 100k, and since you have a distributer you can get away with the cheaper single platinums(DIS like 4.6s and later 3.8s need double) which would be my choice if you're putting on miles. If the car is a secondary/project car coppers all the way.

Iridium is overpriced overkill.
 
IIRC I did chop at them with a utility knife because there is a fabric inside that helps hold it together. You'll find that after enough cutting, its wants to come off. Then the new ones just slide on, make sure to soak them in silicone lube to help them go on and keep em from squeaking. I also recommend taking the time to clean, wire brush, and paint the straps that hold them down, I was much happier with the final product, its the little things for me.
 
You can either cut them, or if you remove the sway bar end links you can slide them off the end of the bar. Most replacement ones come with a slit though to make installation easier, so if you cut them carefully with a razor blade, you can reuse them, and the slit won’t have any negative effects.
 
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