The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Derphound01 said:
Unless they are making noise, leave them alone.
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Funny thing about that: I thought they did make noise.

But once I had the brackets off, and I pushed down on the car, the noise was still the same.

Turns out, these were the culprits. I sprayed silicone lubricant, and now the suspension is completely silent over speed bumps.

20240312_122736.jpg

I had initially blamed the stabilizer bar because the noise only happened when both wheels hit a bump simultaneously. Removing the brackets wasn't entirely futile as it helped me in diagnosing the issue.
 
Anyone recently gotten a new windshield? Having problems finding one around here (Iowa)
 
Grog6 said:
No, but I need one. safelite was the only game in town, last I checked.
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AAA Auto Glass on Papermill can get them still. Not sure the brand but I know they don't use that cheap Fuayo glass that Safelite uses.
 
Grog6 said:
300 bux, here. was 200 in 2005 :)
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Man, I still have a guy here in Vegas that would do a tbird windshield for about $200 installed.
 
The last time I went thru knoxvilles yellow pages(2005), every number for auto glass rang to the same chick at the safelite desk, lol. after about 5 times talking to her, I ordered from her.
Gordo, you must live closer to the factory, lol.
:)
 
dDUBb said:
Fuyao is an OEM glass manufacturer, and some is made in the USA.
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Doesn't mean it is quality glass. Every car I have ever had a windshield replaced with their glass has ended up significantly louder with no solar tint. There's a reason Safelite uses it and there's a reason insurance companies prefer Safelite.

Also this:
www.cincinnati.com

Oscar-winning 'American Factory' leads to scrutiny of Chinese-owned Dayton-area factory

Federal and state officials are reacting to possibly illegal treatment of workers in a Chinese-owned factory in the Dayton area that was exposed in the Academy Award-winning documentary “American Factory.
www.cincinnati.com www.cincinnati.com
 
I remember hearing about that in local news a while ago...I actually drove past that plant today...I remember when it was still thriving as a gm plant 20 years ago...
 
dDUBb said:
How very anti-union of them. 🤔
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There's a difference between being anti-union and just being awful. I'm as anti-union as it gets, but I still believe the process deserves a fair shake from all sides.

Plus $12.00 an hour is abysmal in the automotive world, even in 2017. What did they seriously expect would happen at that pay rate?
 
When they gave the union shit here in the 80's, everyone who could retired. In the 90's, I worked with a guy that had to go back to work to teach them how to do a process that the chemicals hadn't been made for in 40 years, so they could re-make nuclear weapons:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fogbank They have a cute story there, but they found a scrap of the formula, in a file, and traced it to him, and they convinced him to help them. He recreated the formula from memory, and put them on who made the chemicals. He got paid good, I heard.
 
Has anyone used a valve body from BCAutomotive? Is Mr Darrin Burch still doing that stuff?
 
Safelite is the only place to get a windshield around me, but they verified they can do it.
 
Shlamden said:
Has anyone used a valve body from BCAutomotive? Is Mr Darrin Burch still doing that stuff?
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I don't know that he's still doing business. I got a the T-bird's 4R70W from him 6 years ago and it sounded like he was using some of the last of his parts on it. I know some have tried to get in touch with him unsuccessfully in recent years.

If you can establish two-way contact I'd recommend him, but he may have moved on to other pursuits.
 
My stupid question today, are the motor mounts hard to do on the 3.8? can i do them with just jacking up the engine a bit? Also, the Haynes manual says to jack up the engine from the oil pan, is this ok? I've heard from the lubetube that you should never do that. Thanks
 
I'd be curious to hear the best way to do it, I'm sure I'll need them one of these days.

I don't think it's good idea to jack it from the pan unless you want to shatter it. :beek:

Joe
 
Thats what I was thinking, anyone got a good engine jacking point? That's not the oil pan :znanner: these are fun, ive never used em
 
Im interested in the redundant chain mounting too. There was an SCCOA thread about it but I cant seem to find it
 
I bought a chain kit from Racecougar, after my wot problem.Forged loop, chain, bolt down.
 
This is from 4.6 experience: I used a 2x4 across the oil pan with a floor jack. Then a chain support that sits on the top of the fenders. The chain was bolted in place of the alternator.
 
Jacking up the engine from the oil pan is fine, just use a 2x4 to spread the load across to both sides of the pan, and make sure you have the mounts unbolted before you start jacking. The oil pan can support the weight of the engine just fine, but it can’t support the weight of the whole front end of the car!
 
If you lift the engine, the bolts will be tough to remove;just barely support it, and it's much easier. But what I do is hook up the cherry picker, put a bit of lift on it, and they come right out. Sometimes it helps to rock it to get the mount out. Remember where the "double" bolts are, in the engine flange part. One is an engine ground,icr what the other one has bolted to it. I want to say it's a mount for the trans cooler lines, but...
 
Would "Rims are 17x7.5, 5x108 (107.95mm / 4.31in), 60mm offset, 4.25 bolt circle" (2005 Thunderbird) fit on a '97?
 
The retro thunderbird wheels are fugly anyway
 
I like the rims on those 2004/2005 Mark X concept cars. Saw those recently
 
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