Thoughts on MHS PI H/C and stock bottom end

Grog6 said:
You can set the paint without an oven; you hang them up vertically and hit the bottom with a torch until it stops smoking or the glass melts. :)

General Zod said:
Glad to see you got them on and see the gains !

Draetech09 said:
Good to see someone finally put them to work. I knew they were going to smoke heavily also lol.

Now that the bird is nesting for the winter, there are some odds-and-ends that need to be tended to.

The #5 primary is rubbing against the frame rail/shock tower and transmitting quite a bit of extra engine NVH into the entire car. There's a little extra room on the passenger side so I need to find a way to shim the engine slightly to the passenger side. I was thinking I'd loosen up the driver's motor mount and add a couple washers to raise that side of the engine slightly, which I'm thinking (theoretically) will rotate the headers up and away from the body. Unless someone here has a better suggestion... :)

I also need to deal with the rat's nest of coolant hoses at the back (courtesy the "crack pipe" coolant mod plumbing plus the CELO sensor) and replace the valve cover gaskets, so it sounds like the intake is coming off as well.
 
Zep5.0 said:
I think you have a good idea there with shimming one side. Depending on the radius of the headers, it may work. Otherwise, I'm afraid it's the BFH approach.

XR7-4.6 said:
I’m not sure lifting it on one side will help since twist of the engine and give of the motor mounts is already lifting that header upwards. I’d actually suggest a block chain instead to keep the driver side from pulling up, Rod uses one in his Cougar.

Latter part sounds like my winter project(once my doctor gives the ok anyway), I’m pulling the valve covers for the wrinkle coated ones and doing the cooling mod and trying to add back CELO

Grog6 said:
I also put a chain on the motor mount; one ride like that is enough.

Matt - at some point I thought I read that there's a different PI valley coolant tube that exits on the driver's side that makes it a little easier to plumb the crack pipe mod in with the CELO sensor?

I'm getting mentally prepared to rip the top end apart to replace the valve cover gaskets (again), replace the coolant and redo the shoddy heater hose work I did 9 years ago, so now's my chance to revise it with better parts, if they're out there.

I'm also going to see what happens if I unbolt the motor mount and jack it up a tad on the driver's side with regards to the header clearance.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
The Crown Vic tube would be the one your looking for

1W7Z-18663-AA. Looks like I'll have to hack off a little of the end by the outlet, but it should be easier to tee it in... hopefully, anyway.

I decided not to replace the valley heater hose. I got a few Gates molded hoses off Amazon (28467, 18700 and 18070) and threw together this concoction to replace the ... thing I created 9 years ago (see here). It still isn't "pretty" but I think it's an improvement over what it was before. Also, using the constant-tension spring clamps, I never need to worry about them leaking again!

hoses.jpg


Got pretty much everything else buttoned up tonight but I was short on coolant, so I'll need to pick up another gallon in the morning. 60s and sunny tomorrow though; I'm thinking the first mile of 2022 is coming up. :)

Grog6 said:
Amazon sells the proper tool for the factory clamps for about 15 bux, it's well worth it.
 

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